You might find that switching to a different food helps with the smell. According to my vet, corn, wheat, soy, fish, beef, and lamb are ingredients likely to cause digestive issues in cats, so switching to a food with less/none of those ingredients might help. My friend’s cat had terribly stinky (but solid) poos and when she tried a different food, the smell became much more tolerable.

Is that a belly button I see?

And at the opposite end of the spectrum, there’s cats who intentionally don’t cover it, as a way of marking territory. One of mine has a lot of “dominant” tendencies, including a habit of not even trying to cover his poops.

Her poops shouldn’t smell like roses, but the smell shouldn’t be so terrible that you can smell it from the next room either.
Are her poops solid? If they’re not, definitely talk to your vet, as she could be sick, and diarrhea is especially dangerous in kittens.
Assuming it’s not a medical issue, looking at the ingredients of that food, I think you might find the smell improves if you try a different food. One of my cats has a very sensitive stomach, and my vet said that ingredients such as fish, beef, lamb, corn (maize), soy, and wheat are frequent triggers for cats. I see that the first three ingredients of that food are on that list. For proteins, poultry (chicken, turkey, duck) or rabbit tend to be well accepted. I’ve had to switch my cats to 100% wet food, but my vet previously suggested Dr. Elsey’s chicken kibble, and they both liked it.

He’s pooped in that stance since he was a tiny kitten. We have litter boxes of various styles and sizes, and I’ve even tried setting up an identical box for him, minus the lid, but he seemed to prefer the one with the lid. 🤷

In the places I’ve lived (all US), no businesses could sell alcohol between the hours of 2am and 6am, and some alcohol licenses have even more limited hours. I’m pretty sure I overheard a cashier at the Target near my parents’ place telling a customer that they couldn’t sell alcohol until 8a, and I believe I’ve encountered some alcohol licenses with a cutoff as early as 10p.
I hear that some regions don’t allow alcohol sales at all on Sundays, but luckily I’ve never lived in any of those places.

I have 2 cats, one who generally yells the entire time I’m preparing food, and the other is totally silent. I have also found myself quite annoyed with the yelling and have tried various methods to train him. The most effective method to stop his meowing has been feeding him via an automatic feeder, meaning that there’s a separation between when I prepare his food and when he gets to eat. For a variety of reasons, I had to stop using the auto feeder, and have instead worked on training myself to be less annoyed by the meowing. It still gets to me when I’m already stressed, but I’ve learned to appreciate it most days. The other thing I notice with my cat is that if I respond to his meowing, he tends to meow more, so if it’s one of those days where I’m annoyed by it, I try my best to keep my mouth shut while I dish up their food.

One other idea that I haven’t actually tried yet is clicker training. Well, I’ve done some super basic clicker training, but haven’t reached a point yet where I’ve tried using it to train “speak” or “quiet”. My loud cat is also HIGHLY food motivated, and seems to pickup new commands with the clicker training very quickly, so you might also have some luck with that option.

I’m a millennial, and I will abandon my basket 99% of the time when there’s not a staffed cashier lane available, especially if I’m trying to buy more than 2 items.

I actually tried to use the self-checkout at the airport recently when I was buying a single bottle of water, and the cashier jumped in almost immediately to assist anyway. I forget exactly what happened, but it was definitely overly complicated compared to the staffed checkout that I used at the same shop the previous time I flew through that airport.

Yup. Use an instance that makes that data visible, such as kbin. It takes a few clicks, but it’s there for anyone to see.

Noooooo! Never encourage cats to see hands as toys! I’ve been watching “My Cat From Hell” recently, and so many “vicious” cats have a guardian who thinks roughhousing their cat is a good idea, but can’t understand why their cat attacks everyone else. Once they get into a routine of using appropriate toys to play with the cat, suddenly the cat stops attacking everyone else.

Me. I’ve been gone for way too long and just got back home this afternoon.

Hey! Who said you could post pictures of my cat? Lol

While I definitely lean towards not letting cats roam free (not even possible in our current living situation), I’d say that FeLV and FIP scare me way more than FIV. FIV+ cats can live relatively normal, long lives when living in safe, caring homes with some very basic precautions

FIV is primarily transmitted via saliva in deep bite wounds when one cat bites another, and the majority of those bites occur when an intact male cat bites another intact male cat, so if your cats are spayed/neutered, the risk of contracting FIV drops significantly. With proper slow introductions between altered cats, FIV+ and FIV- cats can live together with minimal risk of transmission.

I only mention this because there’s so many FIV+ cats that get stuck in the shelters due to stigma, and wish I could save them all.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feline_immunodeficiency_virus

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Read up on Jackson Galaxy’s guide to cat introductions. I foster and have 2 cats of my own, so I go through the process a few times per year, and I still pull up his guide every time as a refresher.

Secondly, if you have an adult cat at home and want to adopt another, most cat experts recommend either a single adult cat or a pair of kittens, never a single kitten. Kittens are bursting with playful energy, and even a playful adult cat is unlikely to want to play as much as a kitten. When you have a pair of kittens, they can play with each other, while a single kitten is more likely to be annoying to your adult cat.

I foster kittens and have 2 cats of my own, so I’ve done introductions MANY times, and introducing them face to face so quickly is a very risky way to go about things, but luckily, it doesn’t seem to be a total disaster for your cats. I highly recommend checking out Jackson Galaxy’s guide to cat introductions to make sure things continue smoothly.

This is part 1 of a 5 part series. The subsequent parts are linked within: https://www.jacksongalaxy.com/blogs/news/cat-introductions-part-1-before-the-introduction

I went through a similar journey, but with different motivations, and have unfortunately given in to feeding Friskies/Fancy Feast wet food for one of my two cats because he’s slightly underweight and it was the only wet food he would eat enough of to maintain his weight.

The other cat eats Nulo Freestyle minced and shredded poultry flavors. The picky cat seems to rate Nulo somewhere in the middle of the pack. He never tries to eat Nulo if he has Friskies in his dish, but he does sometimes go for the Nulo when I offer something other than Friskies.

At this point, I’m in a love/hate relationship with Friskies. I love how much cheaper it is compared to everything else, but I would like to find something that works for both cats without being even more expensive than Nulo.

As for kibble, Dr. Elsey’s was recommended by my vet as being one of the lowest carb/highest protein kibbles available, so I use that for treats, and both of my cats love it. Dr. Elsey’s also has a line of wet food, but I’ve never tried it since my non-picky cat has a sensitive stomach and all of the flavors contain mussel, and I haven’t found anywhere that sells single cans.